Big Ports, Small Coves and the Great Pacific Ocean
A drive of just a little over an hour on modern highways separates Santiago's Andean walls from the mighty Pacific Ocean, and it will seem like you reach the sea and the pure salty air of the coast in no time. One by one, the main cities of the region start to appear in a jumble that has a single urban axis: the port of Valparaíso. Discover the maze of homes nestled snugly into dozens of hills with sea views and its historical downtown area, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its architectural and cultural importance. Next is Viña del Mar, with its modern buildings, groomed beaches and the Quinta Vergara, which hosts an international music festival each year.
One of the things that make this maritime region unique is its blend of densely populated areas (each home to over 1 million people) and charming fishing coves and villages that spring to life each year when thousands of vacationers make them their summer residences. Towns north of Valparaíso like Reñaca, Concón, Maitencillo and Zapallar offer peace, beaches ideal for swimming and restaurants that offer delicious local seafood and fish dishes.
The areas southeast of Santiago also offer pleasant surprises like Algarrobo and Isla Negra, where Pablo Neruda's most important house-museum is located. San Antiono, Chile's second largest port, is just a few kilometers south. This section of coastline features the area's most rugged landscapes. Matanzas is a great windsurfing spot thanks to its constant windy conditions, while Pichilemu and its mythical Punta de Lobos are the heart of Chilean surfing.
The Central Coast will delight every one of your senses.
Busses depart Santiago from the Alameda and Santiago terminals (Universidad de Santiago Metro Station, Line 1) and the Pajaritos terminal (Pajaritos Metro Station, Line 1). There's one every 15 minutes from 6 a.m. until 10:30 p.m.
By Car
If you're traveling by car to Valparaíso and Viña del Mar, take Route 68, which intersects with the capital's main thoroughfare (Alameda) and the Américo Vespucio beltway. The drive takes approximately 90 minutes. If you are heading to Isla Negra and Algarrobo, take the Autopista Del Sol East.
The Central Coast is busiest during the summer. There are lots of parties, prices are higher, the climate is pleasant and you attend events like the Viña del Mar Song Festival, which attracts international figures. The high season runs from January to February each year, so be sure to make hotel and other reservations well in advance.
Don't leave the port city without sampling the chorrillana, a popular dish made of French fries topped with sautéed beef strips, onions and fried eggs. Other highlights include a boat trip around the bay, a ride on the city's elevators, Cerro Bellavista's Open Air Museum, Playa Ancha, the city's traditional bars and the graffiti that covers its walls.
If you have a chance to do so, ring in the New Year in Valparaíso. The port celebrates in style with a festival of fireworks over the bay, and boats join the party with sirens and lights.
This type of lodging is becoming popular in Valparaíso. Choose one that has been built inside a converted manor home and enjoy your stay without scrimping on the modern conveniences.
The area's comfortable average summer temperatures can be misleading. Though the thermometer may read a pleasant 20°C, solar radiation is much stronger here, and it is not uncommon to end up sunburned after a walk on the beach. Use sun block, wear a hat and stay hydrated.
The Central Coast offers an amazing range of flavors. Local dishes include seafood and fish dishes like paila marina (with rice), mariscal (seafood soup), ceviche (raw marinated fish) and fried or grilled fish to classics such as seafood empanadas and the chorillana (fried potatoes, onions, eggs and meat).
Travelers and their experience in the Central Coast