36 hours in Puerto Varas, on southern Chile’s Llanquihue Lake
2 Nov 2011
Tumbling off one of Chile's comfortable overnight buses into the streets of Puerto Varas is like stumbling into a German fairy tale except that everyone is speaking Spanish and there are volcanoes looming on the horizon.
Puerto Varas is located in the heart of Chile's Lakes District, on the shore of Llanquihue Lake opposite Osorno Volcano to the northeast and Calbuco Volcano to the southeast. Attractions range from outdoor adventure in the surrounding lakes and forests to indoor entertainment at the glittering casino on the lake shore, making the city a multi-faceted vacation spot. The casino can also be thanked for the range and variety of lodging in town, with everything from rustic cabins and funky hostels to five-star hotels.
Day One: Two-wheel tours and hand-made chocolates
Downtown Puerto Varas is lively, charming and teeming with tour guides. Some of the best expeditions into Patagonia and beyond are organized from the little offices in Puerto Varas, so it's a great place to pick up brochures and plan your next adventure.
Downtown is also - amazingly - chock-full of hand-made chocolate shops and gourmet coffee. Start your morning with a delicious coffee and a German-style pastry, take a stroll on the lake front, and then pick up a bicycle at any of the cheap bike rental shops and strap on your helmet.
To see the best of Puerto Varas' German heritage, start pedaling uphill to the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón, built in 1915 and based on southern Germany's Marienkirche in the Black Forest. Architecture geeks will want to follow the "Paseo Patrimonial," a tour of 28 historical houses that is designed to be seen on foot or two wheels. Ask for a copy of the brochure at the tourist offices downtown or when you rent your bike.
Next, head south-east along the edge of the Llanquihue Lake. On sunny days, the sandy beaches are filled with the young and old splashing in the Llanquihue's blue waters, but you'll soon pass the swimmers as you continue along the lake shore, an easy flat road that will take you past stalls selling smoked salmon, honey, fresh jams and homemade cheeses, as well as a cluster of restaurants and cafés on the water's edge. Enjoy lunch here, or stave off hunger until you're back in town, where you can enjoy Puerto Varas' European influences through your taste-buds.
Drop off your bike and consider spending the rest of the afternoon in Puerto Varas' central plaza, with a lively handicraft market. During much of the year, you're likely to find some sort of festival happening as well, including a local Oktoberfest as well as - you guessed it - chocolate festivals. If weather permits, spread your towel on the beach, soak up the sun, and try to work up your courage for a dip in the surprisingly-not-too-frigid waters of Llanquihue.
Day Two: An expedition into the wild
With so many first-rate expedition guides at your fingertips, it would be a shame not to spend one of your days in Puerto Varas in the great natural beauty that surrounds it, with an expert guide leading the way.
Sailing: Sailing tours and sunset cruises on the Llanquihue are offered from late October to mid-April, and tours can also be arranged further afield to the southern island of Chiloé or Patagonia.
Fishing: Fly-fishers will appreciate the natural wealth of rivers and expert guides to lead you to them. Prices include transportation, a day of fishing, and a midday meal.
Rafting & Kayaking: Most paddlers will have their sights set on the Class III and IV rapids of the Petrohué River, just an hour or so outside of town. Multi-day excursions can also be arranged, and many of the outfitters lead trips further south into Patagonia or through beautiful Reloncaví Fjord.
Hiking: The slopes of the Osorno volcano and the spectacular Petrohue falls are both nearby day trips that most outfitters operating out of Puerto Varas will easily arrange for you.
Cultural tours: Day-trips to the city of Puerto Montt or the town of Frutillar can be arranged from Puerto Varas, as can visits to the archaeological site at Monte Verde, one of the oldest sites of human settlement in the Americas, dating back nearly 15,000 years.
Logistics: How to get there
The city is only 20 km north of Puerto Montt, which itself is a one-and-a-half hour flight from Santiago. An overnight bus trip takes about 12 hours from Santiago, and the city is also accessible by boat: ferries from Argentina take about a day; ferries from the outpost of Puerto Natales in Chilean Patagonia take four.
Logistics: When to go
The Lakes District owes its verdant hillsides and beautiful rivers to the heavy rains it receives each winter (June to August). Indoor attractions are just as nice, and prices will be considerable cheaper, but if you're looking for a sunny day outdoors, it's best to plan your trip between late spring and early fall (November to April). Crowds arrive in earnest during the month of February, so expect higher prices and lots of people, as well as the year's best selection of outdoor festivals.







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